DIY flower preservation is genuinely possible, and for many people it's the right choice. This guide covers five techniques that actually work — with honest assessments of what you'll get, what goes wrong, and how much it costs. No vague promises about "everlasting flowers." Just a clear picture of what each method delivers so you can decide what's right for your situation.
Start within the first few days
Every method works best with flowers that still have some moisture and structural integrity. Air drying and silica gel should ideally begin within 2–3 days. Professional resin preservation works with flowers up to 5–7 days after the funeral. The sooner you start, the better the results.
At a Glance: DIY Method Comparison
| Method | Cost | Time | Difficulty | Lasts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Air drying | Free | 2–4 weeks | ⭐ Easy | 1–3 years |
| Silica gel | £15–£30 | 2–7 days | ⭐⭐ Moderate | 1–5 years |
| Pressing | £15–£40 | 3–4 weeks | ⭐⭐ Moderate | 5–15 years |
| Glycerin | £10–£20 | 2–6 weeks | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Years |
| Home resin casting | £30–£80 | 1–2 weeks | ⭐⭐⭐ Hard | Decades |
Method 1: Air Drying
Air drying is the simplest DIY method and costs nothing. Bundle the flower stems together with string or an elastic band, then hang them upside down in a warm, dark, well-ventilated room — an airing cupboard, a dry spare room, a corner away from windows. Leave them for two to four weeks without disturbing them.
What you'll need: String or elastic bands. That's it.
Honest results: Air-dried flowers shrink, and colours shift. Whites go cream or yellow. Deep reds often turn burgundy-brown. Delicate blooms like peonies, sweet peas, or large open roses frequently crumble or lose their shape entirely. Robust flowers — roses (closed buds work best), lavender, statice, gypsophila, and woody-stemmed herbs — fare much better. The end result is a dried bouquet that looks recognisably like your original flowers, but smaller and muted.
What goes wrong: Mould, if there's too much humidity or the stems are wet when you start. Crumbling, if you disturb the flowers before they're fully dry or if the species was too delicate. Hanging flowers in direct sunlight, which bleaches colours quickly.
Best for: Robust flower types, people who want a free immediate option, and situations where a dried bouquet display is the end goal.
Method 2: Silica Gel Drying
Silica gel is a granular desiccant that rapidly absorbs moisture from flower cells, drying them out while preserving their three-dimensional shape far better than air drying. You can buy it from craft shops, Amazon, or garden centres for around £15–£30 for a 1kg bag — enough to do a small bouquet, and it can be reused by drying it in a low oven.
What you'll need: Silica gel crystals (1–2kg for a typical bouquet), an airtight container large enough to completely bury the flowers, and patience.
How it works: Cut the stems short, place flowers face-up in the container, and carefully pour silica gel over and around them until completely submerged. Seal the container and leave for 2–7 days depending on the size and type of flower (check at day 2 — small flowers can over-dry and become brittle). Remove carefully with a soft brush.
Honest results: Significantly better colour retention than air drying, and the flowers hold their shape much better. A silica-dried rose can look strikingly close to a fresh one. However, the flowers become very brittle — they snap at the slightest touch and don't cope with humidity. They need to be kept under a glass dome or in a sealed frame, not handled freely.
What goes wrong: Pouring the gel too quickly and distorting petals. Not burying the flower completely, leaving some petals exposed to air. Over-drying, which makes flowers even more fragile. Storing in a humid room, which causes the flowers to reabsorb moisture and collapse.
Best for: People who want individual blooms for a glass dome display, and who won't need to handle the preserved flowers.
Method 3: Pressing
Pressing dries flowers flat between absorbent paper under weight, producing a two-dimensional preserved flower ideal for framing, cards, and artwork. It's one of the most beautiful results DIY can achieve — pressed flower art has a delicate, botanical quality — but it requires patience and skill to compose well.
What you'll need: A flower press (£15–£40 from craft shops) or a heavy book and blotting paper. Absorbent paper (blotting paper, newspaper, or coffee filters). Weights or the book itself.
How it works: Remove any damaged petals. Place flowers face-down on blotting paper, ensuring petals aren't overlapping. Cover with another sheet of blotting paper, then card, then add weight. Change the blotting paper after the first 48 hours. Leave for 3–4 weeks.
Honest results: Flat, preserved flowers that retain colour reasonably well under proper conditions. They're more durable than silica-dried flowers because they're flat and not trying to hold a three-dimensional form. Pressed flowers in frames can last 10–15 years with UV-resistant glass. The limitation is that pressing is irreversible — the three-dimensional beauty of the flower is permanently lost.
What goes wrong: Mould, if flowers weren't dry enough when pressed or blotting paper wasn't changed early. Colour bleed if flowers touch. Poor composition — arranging pressed flowers attractively takes practice. Fading in direct sunlight without UV glass.
Best for: People who are already crafty, who want wall art, and who are happy with a flat two-dimensional result. Also very good for smaller, naturally flat flowers (pansies, daisies, ferns) that press more faithfully than large blooms.
Method 4: Glycerin Preservation
Glycerin preservation works by replacing the water in plant cells with glycerin, keeping stems and foliage supple and slightly waxy rather than brittle. It works best on foliage, woody-stemmed plants, and some robust flower types.
What you'll need: Vegetable glycerin (available from pharmacies and health food shops, £8–£15 for 500ml), water, a container tall enough to hold stems upright, scissors.
How it works: Mix one part glycerin with two parts warm water. Crush or split the bottom 2–3cm of each stem to maximise absorption. Stand stems in the solution and leave in a cool, dark place. Check weekly and top up the solution as needed. Most plants take 2–6 weeks.
Honest results: Glycerin-preserved foliage (eucalyptus, ferns, bay, beech leaves) is genuinely beautiful — it stays supple and touchable rather than brittle. Flowers are more variable; colour shift is common. We've written a detailed guide to glycerin preservation if you want to go deeper on this method.
Best for: Foliage, herbs, and mixed greenery from funeral arrangements. Less reliable for preserving flowers themselves.
Method 5: Home Resin Casting
This is the most ambitious DIY option and the one that produces the most professional-looking results when done well — and the most disappointing results when it goes wrong. Home resin casting involves drying your flowers first (using one of the methods above), then embedding them in epoxy resin poured into a mould.
What you'll need: Two-part epoxy resin kit (£15–£30), silicone moulds in your chosen shape (£5–£20 for a set), mixing cups and stir sticks, nitrile gloves, a level surface, and a torch or heat gun to pop surface bubbles.
How it works: The flowers must be completely dry before casting — any moisture causes the resin to cloud. Mix the two-part resin according to the kit instructions (ratios matter). Pour a base layer of resin, let it partly cure, place the flowers, pour the remaining resin. Wait 24–72 hours for full curing.
Honest results: When it works, home resin is genuinely impressive. When it doesn't work — and for beginners it often doesn't on the first attempt — you get cloudy resin, air bubbles, sticky uncured patches, or flowers that shift during pouring. Practice on something that doesn't matter before working with the funeral flowers. There's no recovery if the cast goes wrong.
Honest advice: If the flowers are precious, consider whether the risk of an irreversible mistake is worth saving the cost of professional preservation. Professional preservation from £85 for a paperweight is worth comparing against the risk of a failed home cast of flowers you can't replace.
Best for: People who enjoy craft projects, have patience for a learning curve, and have enough flowers to experiment with before committing to the important blooms.
When DIY Is Not the Right Choice
The flowers are irreplaceable
If there's only one bouquet and one chance, the risk of a DIY mistake matters far more than the cost saving.
Multiple family members want pieces
Professional studios can often yield multiple keepsakes from one bouquet — something very difficult to achieve cleanly at home.
You want it to last decades
Professional UV-resistant resin, properly formulated and cured, outlasts all DIY options significantly.
You're not in the right headspace
DIY projects require patience and focus. Grief can make both difficult. There's no shame in letting someone else handle it.
Our memorial flower preservation service works by post across the UK — you send the flowers, we handle everything, and you receive progress photos before anything is finalised.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which DIY method is best for roses?
Silica gel for individual blooms you want to keep three-dimensional, pressing for a flat decorative result, or air drying if the roses are closed buds (open roses crumble when air dried). Resin casting gives the most impressive result but requires pre-drying first.
Can I use a microwave to speed up drying?
Yes, with silica gel — bury the flowers in gel in a microwave-safe container (no metal) and microwave in 30-second bursts on low power, checking between each. This reduces drying time from days to hours. Don't try to microwave flowers without the gel.
What type of resin should I buy for home casting?
Look for UV-resistant, crystal-clear epoxy resin. Brands marketed specifically for floral preservation tend to produce clearer results than general craft resin. Avoid polyester resin — it yellows faster and has more hazardous fumes. Always work in a well-ventilated space.
How do I stop bubbles in my resin cast?
Pour slowly, mix gently, warm the resin slightly before pouring, and use a craft torch held 10–15cm above the surface immediately after pouring to pop surface bubbles. Ensure flowers are completely dry before casting to prevent internal cloudiness.
Is DIY preservation really cheaper than professional?
For air drying and pressing, yes — the materials cost very little. For silica gel and resin, you're spending £30–£80 on materials for a result that may not match a professional piece starting at £85. When you factor in the risk of failure and the irreplaceability of the flowers, the cost difference is often smaller than it first appears.
Would You Prefer It Done Professionally?
If you'd rather not risk it with flowers that matter, we preserve funeral flowers by post across the UK — handling everything from drying through to the finished keepsake, with progress photos throughout. From £85 for a paperweight.